Love in the Time of Covid-19

“So what are we going to do?”

It was an obvious question. Though it didn’t have an answer because we didn’t really know. While visiting Paraty Brazil, the US State Department issued a Level 4: No Travel Warning and asked all American traveler’s to “Go home now!” It was ominous and got our attention.

The thing is, we’re in only the fourth month of our trip around the world and we’re just now getting into a nice flow. And honestly, we don’t have a home to go back to. Going back to LA, or anywhere else in the US for that matter, would not be easy or cheap. We would need a place to stay, a car, and Kelly needs US health insurance. And besides, when we looked at a map of where the virus was hitting the hardest, the US, and in particular California, was getting crushed.

And Brazil? The virus had barely hit here, though we could still catch it. But what could we expect for health care as foreigners if we needed it? We talked about all of this in depth one night and went to bed without making a decision.

The next morning we both woke up and looked into each others eyes. “Well?” It was clear. No words needed. We were staying in Brazil and taking our chances.

So we hitched a ride from Paraty to São Paulo — the largest city in South America; a place where we never intended to spend more than a few days. It was going to be our home for the next…whenever.

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Our friend Ernesto offered us a room in his family’s 6-bedroom house which he currently runs as an Airbnb rental. But as soon as we arrived the government ordered all Airbnb’s, as well as resorts and hotels, closed.

So we’re here now, with the entire house to ourselves — staying as friends of the owner instead of Airbnb guests. At that moment we knew we had made the right decision to stay and that we would be quite comfortable for the foreseeable future.

São Paulo is turning out better than we expected. This house is beautiful, in a lovely neighborhood, and near everything we need. Like most of the world, grocery stores and pharmacies are about the only businesses open, but it’s everything we need. After so many months of being on the road and eating out, shopping and cooking our own meals is pure joy. And after talking with friends about the shortage of toilet paper in the US, we saw aisles of toilet paper here. Grocery stores are fully stocked. Traffic is light and buses and Ubers are active. People were going to the grocery store and exercising, and life seems to be calm and somewhat normal (if that’s possible during a global pandemic). There, seemingly, is no panic here.

So we’re getting settled as best we can, and beginning our slow exploration of the surrounding neighborhoods — by foot, bike and Uber. We’ve found several high-end grocery stores within walking distance (even an Eataly!), and the best thing yet (for Scott at least), is a robust city bike system for $6 per month.

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But wait! After a few days, reality set in. We’re thousands of miles away from friends and family, in a country where we don’t speak the language, and we basically don’t know anyone. With the borders closed, we have no idea when we can leave or where we might go next.

So we asked ourselves, why aren’t we freaking out? Why are we feeling so grateful to be here amidst the chaos and fear that is paralyzing the globe? I think it goes back to us selling the house and cars, and packing our bags and taking off on this adventure — and embracing a life of uncertainty. We already simplified our existence, faced our fears and chose to accept unknowns.

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We feel free and humble and oh-so-lucky to have each other. Wherever that may be.

And, the dog in the banner picture with Kelly is Zara. She’s our neighbor’s dog. We’re grateful to have met a few people (and pets) here who have made life on the road during a shutdown even better.

Stay safe, everyone!