When we left LA in December we had a couple of scheduled events on our calendar that we needed to accommodate into our travel plans. One was our African Safari (more on that later), and the other was the 50th birthday celebration for our friend, Ernesto.
The birthday boy (left) and husband, Richard
Ernesto, born and raised in São Paulo, had the fun idea to invite a group of friends to join him in Brazil for a week-long birthday celebration. He spent months working out the details. We were excited to spend a week with familiar faces other than our own.
The multi-city, progressive party was to start in Rio de Janeiro on Sunday with a beach party and city tour, on Wednesday move to the beautiful city of Paraty for boating and fine dining, ending the week in São Paulo with an 120-person birthday bash at Ernesto’s family home. This was precisely the time the Coronavirus worldwide panic hit.
So here’s what actually happened…
Rio de Janeiro
Already by Saturday the original group of 22 had diminished to 13. Those who stayed home worried about looming threats of US flight cancellations and international border closings.
Ernesto pivoted and before we knew it hotel and dinner reservations were rearranged and we found ourselves settling into a luxury three-story apartment with a rooftop pool one-block from Ipanema beach.
Groceries purchased. Liquor cabinet stocked. All good in paradise.
Photo credit: Luis Fernando ‘Nando’ Rocco
Even though the Coronavirus was on everybody’s mind, we were swept away by the loose vibe, famous beaches and friendly, beautiful people. We eagerly jumped into our plans.
Copacabana Beach — one mile from our Ipanema apartment.
We spent Monday morning touring Christ the Redeemer monument high above Rio. Crowds were moderate.
Our gang at the monument…
Richard Rocco-Davies, Lupe Sanchez, Julie Moyer, Michael Tschann, Kelly and Scott, Bob Marshall, Ernesto Rocc-Davies, Neil Tadken, Frank Slesinski, Pearl and Alex Kaliakin.
Photo credit: Luis Fernando ‘Nando’ Rocco
Later that hot afternoon we walked through Jardim Botânico (Rio’s famous botanical garden) with hardly any other visitors in the park. It felt like a private tour. The next day the park closed its gates to the public.
When we arrived, Rio beaches were packed and streets were busy — we hardly saw anyone wearing surgical masks. But quickly, Brazil’s Coronavirus death count tripled — from 300 to 900+ people. In a country of 209 million people, the count was low but the growth rate was alarming.
In the news, Brazil’s president was receiving world-wide criticism for his public exposure to potential virus carriers and his downplaying of virus pandemic protocol.
The mood of party-goers started going south. Ernesto’s Brazilian friends were pulling out of the Saturday night celebration and our small group was spending hours on the phone trying to reschedule their flights home. Ernesto was in damage control mode; canceling caterers, florists, and bartenders. Happily our group pulled together to make the best of the remainder of the week.
Paraty
Wednesday morning we all jumped into rental cars and headed south to Paraty. This quaint, picturesque town — a UNESCO World Heritage Site, located 4 hours south — was the perfect place to get away from the big city and enjoy the quieter side of Brazil.
The usually bustling tourist town was unusually quiet; with only a few shops and restaurants open.
One of the highlights of the week was spending the day on a chartered boat, enjoying the warm, crystal-clear emerald water. We sipped cocktails, worked on our tans, swam and snorkeled like teenagers. We dubbed it ‘spring break for adults.’
We had a celebratory dinner at Bartholomeu Restaurant before we left — a wonderful Brazilian restaurant in the heart of town.
After dinner, a little cake, sparklers and champagne to celebrate.
The next day the US State Department issued a Level 4: Global Do Not Travel Alert. The warning to US travelers abroad, ‘Go home now!’
Everyone had decided to leave on Friday, three days early. We decided to stay. Our group loaded into rental cars, drove four hours to the São Paulo Airport and we said our goodbyes.
As for Scott and I, in our next post we’ll explain why we chose to stay in Sao Paulo; along with our Coronavirus adventures.
Stay safe everyone!
Here are a few more fun pics from Ernesto’s party week…
Related posts:
Last week’s adventure in Panama