“How many of your parents are concerned that you’ll be murdered by the Colombian drug cartel while you’re here?” asked our guide, Jeff. Pretty much everyone in our tour group raised their hands. That’s how our first tour of Bogota began. We then spent the next three hours walking through our neighborhood of La Candelaria hearing about the dark and violent history of the city, and it’s transformation.
It’s hard to imagine what this country has been through over the last 500 years. It was born of war and has been in constant battle with itself since the Spanish invasion in 1525. But the 1990’s were altogether different. Pablo Escobar came into power and left a legacy of murder and terror like none other. Since his death, this country has attained a newfound level of peace - albeit fragile - that has allowed its doors to be opened to the world.
The Graffiti Bike Tour. We stopped along the way at a coffee roaster for espresso drinks and then a fruit stand to taste the most delicious and unique fruits we had never seen before.
During our five days in Bogota, we took a total of three tours: the Free-City tour, the Graffiti tour, and a bike tour. These tours gave us an overview of the history, politics, crime and the city-wide display of graffiti and wall art. Unlike the US, this art form isn’t related to territorial gang markings. Instead, they are messages of government resistance and historic reminders of civil war and drug violence; which most residents would love to forget.
The message from artists, “Remember and learn from the past.”
The final stop on our bike tour was at a local restaurant to enjoy a cold Colombian beer after our long ride and to play a few rounds of Turmequé (a/k/a Tejo). This game is similar to corn hole, but the bean bags are concrete pucks and the target is a slanted tray of pliable clay planted with paper pockets of gunpowder.
Let’s just say that when you 'score,’ it’s…explosive.
Bogota’s culturally rich diverse population includes whites, blacks, indigenous people, Spanish and mixed races, and the city is filled with young professionals, university students, bars and hostels. Latin American music and Salsa dancing thrive.
The outspoken, artistic and liberal community even elected a 30-year-old lesbian mayor who continues to lead their progressive transformation.
We took the funicular up to the top of Monserrate Mountain (10,000 feet of elevation) and enjoyed a glass of wine at a restaurant overlooking town.
Our trip was filled with sites, tastes and breath-taking views. Literally breath-taking. The town sits 9,000 above sea level. Just a normal walk around this town is exhausting. I haven’t felt this winded since hiking out of the Grand Canyon last summer. We enjoyed cool, beautiful weather with a bit of haze.
The typical meal in Columbia, known as Ajiaco, is basically chicken soup with vegetables, served with sides of rice, avocado, creme fraiche and capers + beer = $9.
TRIP NOTES
Museums
The Botero Museum was delightfully impressive with Fernando Botero’s work and collection of other master pieces.
The Museo de Oro (Gold Museum) — not so much. We kept waiting to walk into a vault full of gold bars or something equally impressive. Instead, there were a lot of gold earrings, pipes and breast plates.
We drank a local brew called Chicha (a fermented corn-based liquor). Tasted a little like Kombucha.
Food and Drinks
We enjoyed two delicious meals at Sant Just.
The best Gin & Tonics (with lime, cucumber and a sprig of rosemary) and dinner at Los Gatos Gris - the music was boho-mellow and the general vibe was old-world-charming.
Great coffee, breakfast and croissants at Andante Restaurant (good espresso was surprisingly hard to find).
In general the food was just ‘basic basic.’
When we weren’t sightseeing we…
Played Jenga one night after dinner at De Una Travel Bar (pretending to have a ‘normal life’ on the road).
Watched ‘Learning to Skateboard in a War Zone (If you’re a Girl)’ on our laptop. Loved it!
We stayed at…
An Airbnb in La Candelaria, Magdalena (nice/helpful staff, clean, modern, small and cheap. $40/night.)
People we met along the way
Arthur, a business student from the Netherlands, joined us for the funicular ride to Monsarrate and drinks at the top.
What’s Next….
We’re continuing on to Medellin to expand our knowledge of Colombian culture (and to improve our dancing skills).
Wish us luck!